Liesbeth den besten
„The power of jewellery“
What is the power of jewellery? Once it was its wealth, its price, expressed in precious gemstones. Today jewellery can be everything. Gems are sawn in two, drilled through, painted and grinded. Jewellery is now depreciated (Roland Barthes), or to put it more positively: democratised. But where did this bring us? Author jewellery is a relatively young thing, we can trace its origins back to the times of Art & Crafts, Wiener Werkstätte, Jugendstil, but it only became a world encompassing phenomenon after the nineteen sixties. Now there are many schools, symposiums, publications, exhibitions, galleries and collectors.
But where does contemporary jewellery end up? Author jewellery finds its way to collectors, sometimes museums, now and then to auctions, rarely to newspapers, glossies and television. It is hardly seen, known or discussed. Is author jewellery already part of our cultural heritage, or does it still resides at the periphery? What is the situation exactly right now? What is the power of jewellery today?
(I will talk about Damien Hirst, Karl Fritsch, Ted Noten, Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels, the design hype, jewellery auctions and more)